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CAD drawings for inleting

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Re: CAD drawings for inleting

Postby Imakethings » Sat Mar 09, 2013 12:29 am

Just for fun I decided to redo my inleting pattern in metric and strictly based upon the receiver. Attached is the zipped .dwg of the file.

If you need a program to view it I made it with CAD X11, which is free.

Obviously I have strange definition of fun.
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Re: CAD drawings for inleting

Postby biggorillagunworks » Sat Mar 09, 2013 11:23 am

Imakethings wrote:I made some CAD drawings based on the stock, receiver, and barrel on my 91/30's in prep for doing another stock.


I'm curious as to the variations you found- and how many stocks you have that you compared- in determining the dimensions.

This was/is still a quandary for me when I was setting up my first pattern stock. I have five 91/30 stocks- all were different, some closer than others, some that wouldn't even interchange into a different stock, or that had excessive "slop".

Did you not find variations, and if you did- how did you reconcile them?
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Re: CAD drawings for inleting

Postby Imakethings » Sat Mar 09, 2013 5:56 pm

Unfortunately I only have the two receivers to compare against, but the measurements on both the 91/30's I have were pretty much the same size, just rounding up to the closest 0.50mm
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Re: CAD drawings for inleting

Postby Imakethings » Sat Mar 09, 2013 11:55 pm

That made my day!
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Re: CAD drawings for inleting

Postby Shepard » Sun Mar 10, 2013 2:40 am

biggorillagunworks wrote:
Imakethings wrote:I made some CAD drawings based on the stock, receiver, and barrel on my 91/30's in prep for doing another stock.


I'm curious as to the variations you found- and how many stocks you have that you compared- in determining the dimensions.

This was/is still a quandary for me when I was setting up my first pattern stock. I have five 91/30 stocks- all were different, some closer than others, some that wouldn't even interchange into a different stock, or that had excessive "slop".

Did you not find variations, and if you did- how did you reconcile them?

I to have tried the carving copy machine and the inlet always looked bad. Carve them and then cut the inlet on a mill. It's so much more professional looking work.
Now I lay me down to sleep -- under my pillow a Glock I keep. If I should wake and find you inside -- the coroners van will be your next ride.
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Re: CAD drawings for inleting

Postby Imakethings » Sun Mar 10, 2013 8:00 am

Shepard wrote:I to have tried the carving copy machine and the inlet always looked bad. Carve them and then cut the inlet on a mill. It's so much more professional looking work.


I use a router since I don't have access to an end mill and I leave the tolerances intentionally short from what I measure. After I get the general inleting done I go in with chisels and sandpaper to get it to as near a 'perfect' fit as I can before bedding.
Knowing the dimensions when I'm doing the routing is the important bit for me to get started, it saves me a lot of grief.
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Re: CAD drawings for inleting

Postby biggorillagunworks » Sun Mar 10, 2013 10:33 am

Imakethings wrote:
Shepard wrote:I to have tried the carving copy machine and the inlet always looked bad. Carve them and then cut the inlet on a mill. It's so much more professional looking work.


I use a router since I don't have access to an end mill and I leave the tolerances intentionally short from what I measure. After I get the general inleting done I go in with chisels and sandpaper to get it to as near a 'perfect' fit as I can before bedding.
Knowing the dimensions when I'm doing the routing is the important bit for me to get started, it saves me a lot of grief.


You lost me there...
If you're bedding the receiver, you're going to hog out a ton of wood to allow adequate depth for the epoxy. So what's the point in trying to get an exact fit (as though you weren't going to bed it) when you're only going to chop it out, after?
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Re: CAD drawings for inleting

Postby Shepard » Sun Mar 10, 2013 10:51 am

biggorillagunworks wrote:
Imakethings wrote:
Shepard wrote:I to have tried the carving copy machine and the inlet always looked bad. Carve them and then cut the inlet on a mill. It's so much more professional looking work.


I use a router since I don't have access to an end mill and I leave the tolerances intentionally short from what I measure. After I get the general inleting done I go in with chisels and sandpaper to get it to as near a 'perfect' fit as I can before bedding.
Knowing the dimensions when I'm doing the routing is the important bit for me to get started, it saves me a lot of grief.


You lost me there...
If you're bedding the receiver, you're going to hog out a ton of wood to allow adequate depth for the epoxy. So what's the point in trying to get an exact fit (as though you weren't going to bed it) when you're only going to chop it out, after?


I like a tight fit -- one you could use without bedding compound. I'm not sure how you go about bedding an action, but the less amount of bedding compound the better. I don't use fiberglass to bed the receiver. What I do use is to expensive to waste. I wouldn't hog out a ton of wood no matter what I use.
Now I lay me down to sleep -- under my pillow a Glock I keep. If I should wake and find you inside -- the coroners van will be your next ride.
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